Monday, March 22, 2010

Sari photo session!











The Nepali family that I am currently staying with (until the apartment I will be living in longer term opens up this weekend) really wanted to dress me in a sari this weekend. I very happily complied. I mean, beautiful fabric and elegance? I love it. Especially after all of the travel clothing that I have been wearing.

The two younger, adorable girls are helpers in the house. Nesa and Salpana. I have enjoyed being around them more than I can explain. I swear their smiles and games often keep me sane.

And my host family is fabulous. I am eating better than I ever have, I think. They spend a lot of time together, laugh a lot, and put up with my requests for boiled water and to sleep in during the mornings (they get up around 5:45 AM - no way!) with a lot of grace and kindness.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Trip to the village! And me in a Kurta






Just a couple of pictures to share from a trip to the village to observe 2 of my cowokers doing a disability rights awareness training for 30 local villagers.

Top photo: Me in local Nepali wear!
Photo #2: This is a close up of the bridge that I am standing on
Photo #3: Local village disablity advocate (front) and my coworker/trainer, Nawaraj Ji, back
Photo #4: Participants in the training

Yesterday I took a minivan trip from Hetauda to a local VDC (Village Development Committee) area. About 30 minutes away. Then walked about 20 minutes to where my coworkers were holding their training - over a river and a very simply built bridge that is far under water during the rainy/monsoon season.

This village area is known locally for the vegetables that they grow. Lots of the cauliflower that I eat every day comes from here.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

International Women's Day 2010





I’ve done a lot of thinking about gender issues in my lifetime. Through the lens of personal experience, academically while studying folklore and anthropology in graduate school, and through years of community work and programming, much of which has been with a focus on supporting young women, in particular.

I’m not sure I’ve thought and felt as intensely about gender, however, as I have in the last four months I have been in Nepal. Roles and expectations of women’s roles are quite well defined here, though in the bigger cities you can see a younger generation that is questioning these roles.

I imagine that for some people there is a lot of comfort and good in these defined roles. Nepal has less than a 3% divorce rate, family ties are extremely tight, and bonds between women are strong.

There are some bleak statistics and stories I’ve heard and witness here, as well, however. For instance, it assumed that about one third of women experience physical violence in their lives in Nepal. My coworker shared a statistic she found in the newspaper stating that 89% experience psychological/emotional violence.

The other day newspaper headlines included, “More Siraha Women Face Witchcraft Charges”, and “Cases Against ‘Cheating Wives’ On the Rise”. Seems that, even though prostitution is common enough that it is a serious problem in some cities, an indication that at least a good number of married men are not faithful to their wives, a woman who has an affair is something that can make the national newspaper. And in some regions in Nepal, women who have just given birth are put in the cowshed directly afterwards for over a week as they are considered unclean.

The story about witchcraft hit a particular nerve for me, as here – at least – it’s not really about witchcraft as magic or belief system, but rather about intense caste discrimination with witchcraft as the back drop. In this particular case, a woman from the lowest caste (dalit) was accused of killing her father-in-law who had been sick for a long time and died. She was dragged through the streets of the village, forced to eat feces, and has been totally excluded from the community. As we know, accusations of witchcraft, for at least hundreds of years (if not longer), has been used as a powerful tool to discriminate against women and to perpetuate violence and hatred.

Gender disparities in Nepal have also come into my life in a very personal way, as well. I am currently staying with a (wonderful) Nepali family who has taken me into their home until my apartment opens up in a couple of weeks. They have a helper in their home, a young girl who helps with the cleaning. In this context, taking a helper into their home is their way of taking care of girl who lives in poverty and offering her an education that she would not otherwise have.
When I returned from Kathmandu yesterday there was a new girl who had arrived. Her parents, however, won’t allow her to go to school, even though the family I stay with would pay for her schooling. She is 9 years old.

In this place of witnessing gender violence – in the many forms in which it comes – I was grateful to be able to celebrate International Women’s Day with thoughtful, conscious, committed Nepali individuals: youth, activists, government officials, lawyers. And other VSO volunteers.

I helped to lead and facilitate a 3 day workshop on Gender and Inclusion in the Workplace last week with a great team of folks, and it ended up being quite successful, despite the fact that much of it was planned last minute. Maybe there is something to be said for the creativity and flexibility and deadlines, though really, I know it was because of the stellar team we had putting it together. We incorporated song and dance, local leaders and activists, perspectives from 3rd gender participants, film, time for reflection, planning and networking. It was re-energizing for me to be around others who are actively participating in positive change. To be around all sorts of women and men really thinking about how to bring more equity into their personal lives, workplaces, and communities. Even more energizing to see just how large the group was.

My friend Jimmy, from Uganda, gave his female friends chocolate for Women’s Day. My friend, Donald, from the Phillipines threw a party for our volunteer group to celebrate Women’s Day. And my friend, Wanet, also from the Phillipines, found beautiful bookmarks that she gave to everyone in honor of Women’s Day. I’ve never done too much in my own past to celebrate International Women’s Day. I have a feeling that I will in the future, however.

I figure that the only weapon against violence and discrimination is awareness, love, education. And remembering and honoring what is sacred. In whatever way you can – with parties, chocolate, bookmarks, dance, and song…..and other kindred spirits. How wonderful to be surrounded by kindred spirits.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Village visit








Last week I traveled to a small village north of here with my coworker, Raju, who is a physical therapist and disability rights trainer and advocate.

We took a bus four hours to the north. Luckily, someone had mentioned to me ahead of time that north of Hetauda means up. It went from 1500 feet in Hetauda to over 7,020 feet and got colder and colder accordingly. I had felt really self conscious about bringing two bags with me. My Nepali friends here travel extremely light- and think I’m pretty funny for bringing extra things. It’s not in my nature to travel light, however, I’ve decided. I can do it if I have to, but I’d prefer not to whenever possible. And boy, was I glad I had brought that second bag with my sleeping bag in it. It ended up being my saving grace during this trip as the small guest house we stayed in was fresh out of blankets – and rooms for that matter. But my coworker found another woman who had a bed free in her room so I had somewhere to crash.

It is still a bit nerve-wracking for me to take trips to villages, as I think of myself at this point in my life as a city girl. It’s hard for me to wrap my head around village living.

The hardest part for me in the village was seeing the poverty and lack of resources. The small guesthouse we stayed in was run by a really kind man and his son, who was maybe 12. I couldn’t help but notice he wasn’t in school, but rather was washing the tables, bathrooms, and helping to cook all day. I am sure that if they’d had the money and the option, he would have been.

The view of the mountains in the village was like nothing I’ve ever seen before here. They felt so large and small at the same time, close enough that I could feel them. Close enough to feel like if I closed my eyes and flew I could transport myself right over the valley and to them. Far enough that I didn’t sense the danger, remoteness or intense cold that mountains that is also part of mountains.
I felt absolute happiness in that moment and couldn’t imagine being anywhere else. Time just stopped…

I’m learning to live with deep sadness and happiness coexisting here in Nepal.

We were in the village to facilitate a day long leadership training on advocating for disability rights with the central spokespersons of the village. At one point I was panicked about having to actually facilitate a portion of the day – in my broken Nepali (so very basic still) and my English, and my American-city worldview and experience. Luckily, the training started 3 hours late, and therefore I was off the hook. I was able to just watch and listen. Raju did a fabulous job facilitating – he is well loved in the village, and for good reason.

In the evening, Raju gave a wheelchair to a man who’d been having to walk on crutches everywhere. For a long time, I imagine. This was a big event in the village. Everyone who was around (and I mean everyone) crowded around to see the wheelchair, and to watch Raju give instructions on how to use it. This lasted easily a half hour- and no one strayed.

I felt more comfortable watching the mountains and headed off to catch a few pictures.

We left on the 3rd day early in the morning and had an uneventful bus ride back. I was quiet most of the way – just taking in the experience, resting, and enjoying some good Nepali snacks along the way.