Saturday, January 23, 2010

To Hetauda and back.




So, I thought I'd be able to write a post with some pictures at some point while I was in Hetauda last week, but, no luck. Ke garne (what to do)? No access to the internet there until I get set up properly in a home, figure out the electricity schedules, or find a way to visit the internet cafes between work and getting home without having to walk in the dark.

I arrived back in Kathmandu today for a two-day conference and a meeting with my head office to decide if they will change my placement to be based in Kathmandu. But more on that at another time.

The ride here was an exciting four hour Jeep ride. Made more exciting by the fact that I shared the ride with 14 others. Yes, 14. There were 12 of us squeezed inside the Jeep, and when they couldn't squeeze in any more, 2 people jumped on top of the Jeep in the luggage rack. I have completely let go of any need for personal space here.

Most of the way we were on a lumpy, one-lane dirt road with some severe drop-offs to the side giving way to winding rivers in canyons and villages scattered along the way. Occasionally we had to share the road with cattle and goats, waiting for them to cross until we could continue. The man sitting next to me and the boy in front would touch their chest and head with their right hand (as people do here) every time we passed a temple. Which was often. Cell phones would ring every once in a while when we were in range, but generally everyone was quiet.

The silence seemed to be much more comfortable once I finally said a few words in Nepali and the driver and passengers were able to establish that I was a volunteer who was living in Nepal for a while. Maybe, because even if it's just a few words, knowing that you can communicate with someone and ask them a couple of questions makes all the difference.

I was glad that we passed only one jeep that had tumbled down the hillside. On the way to Hetauda several days earlier - which is considered the safer journey - we passed a total of 7 overturned buses. These accidents happen at night when people drive fast, often drunk. Daytime travel is the way to go here. And getting to know the right drivers, who can be amazingly skilled and safe if you know where to go.

My week in Hetauda was memorable. As memorable as my first week in Kathmandu when I came with such fresh eyes and such a different environment to get to know. And as memorable as my week in the village during our training course.

I love Hetauda. It is vibrant and city-like by day and quiet and village-like as soon as dark comes. There are no cars in Hetauda. Except for the few transport Jeeps. Just tuk tuks, motorbikes, bikes, an occasional large truck coming through, and (most of all) people walking by foot. My walk to work was 25 minutes along a dirt road from where I was staying just out of town with another volunteer until my placement location gets settled. I would usually pass a young boy around 6 herding a group of buffalo in the afternoons and a man carrying 25-30 chickens on his bike along the way, as well as many, many children walking to and from school.

In my week in Hetauda I found out where to buy oats (this took me three days of wandering around after work each day), I met the head of police (so they know who the foreigner in town is), met several folks in charge at the district education office, spent 4 days in the office getting to know the staff and their work, figured out how to read the electricity schedule in the daily newspaper, ate a Dosa (South Indian dish) for the first time, was invited in the future to two village homes for meals. A whirlwind, I tell you! Oh, I also spent a lot of time hanging out and chatting, drinking tea, making oatmeal and warming water for showers in the morning. And drinking tea. I learned a lot about the woman I was staying with, Doreen, who has had an amazing 68 years of life. A very wise and witty woman with more energy that I have these days, I think.

Now that I'm back in Kathmandu I am exhausted and happy after making it here today and after such a beautiful (albeit slightly uncomfortable) journey. Off now to my Kathmandu "home", Pacfic Guest House, to unpack and make myself at home here again for a few days. Maybe longer - we'll see!










2 comments:

Unknown said...

Thank goodness for blogs. So good to read and see photos of your experience. I can picture it, and thus somewhat live vicariously! It sounds amazing. Wow. 2 years. What a great addition to life. I will write you an email with my lastest news. Love to you Tiffany! You are missed!
Jenny

Anonymous said...

Great blog Tiffany. Love the photos too. I'm scheduled to arrive in Nepal in March for two years with VSO, so nice to see what's happening from a volunteer perspective.

Cheers

John